coraa: (history)
[personal profile] coraa
Dear world,

Medieval cooks didn't use spices because they were covering up the taste of rancid or rotten meat. There is a very simple reason for this: eating bad meat will make you very very sick, and quite possibly kill you (especially if you live in a time when you can't get electrolyte drinks or IV fluid replacement). Covering it up with cinnamon and pepper will not fix that. Medieval people did not eat rotten meat, because, while they didn't have our modern germ theory, they were capable of noticing that people who ate meat that smelled bad got very sick and often died.

It is true that a lot of meat in the middle ages was not eaten right away, but then, a lot of modern meat is not eaten right away -- what do you think aged steak is? And yes, accordingly, some of the meat eaten at the time probably had a somewhat different taste and texture than our refrigerated meats. (Also, not surprisingly, they very often dealt with the no-refrigeration problem by preserving meats, by salting or drying or sugaring or pickling or submerging in fat. But they preserved them before they went bad, because that's the point of preserving.) And yes, absolutely, people in the middle ages liked their food heavily spiced, and also sweeter than most modern people do. But they liked it that way because that was what they liked; it was a luxury, and also just a preference. I like the way pickles taste, but that doesn't mean I eat them because I had to do something with a bagful of rotten cucumbers.

But they didn't eat rotten meat, because eating rotten meat isn't something people do -- our digestive tracks can't handle it. It's almost impossible to hide the smell or taste of rotten meat (being as it's one of the things our bodies are designed to teach us not to eat), and even if you could, you'd get out of that habit pretty quickly after the first round of people got sick and died.

(Also, since spices were extraordinarily expensive, and therefore province of the wealthy, it just doesn't make sense. You save nothing by refusing to throw out a piece of meat and instead putting on spices that cost many times the cost of the meat; it would be financially wiser to just throw out the meat and slaughter another animal.)

Medieval people didn't think like modern people, but they weren't stupid. They just liked spiced food, when they could afford it.

Yours in the puncturing of historical just-so-stories,

Cora

the irritated history geek who just watched Top Chef

Date: 2009-11-14 08:23 am (UTC)
ironed_orchid: pin up: woman baking (Domestic Goddess)
From: [personal profile] ironed_orchid
I am going to bookmark this and send people here whenever I hear people repeating that myth.

Of course, some spices do have drying or preserving qualities which make meat last longer without going bad.

Also, how do these people think salami is made?

Date: 2009-11-14 04:19 pm (UTC)
jonquil: (Default)
From: [personal profile] jonquil
::applause::

SO TIRED OF THAT ONE.

Date: 2009-11-14 06:57 pm (UTC)
telophase: (Default)
From: [personal profile] telophase
The judges of these sorts of things drive me nuts. On Shear Genius a year or so back, they did a hairstyles-inspired-by-history challenge. The guy who won was given the Tudor period and did something Georgian, and they praised him on his historical accuracy!

I almost threw something at the television.

Date: 2009-11-14 07:20 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] jmpava.livejournal.com
You are SOOOOOOO cute when your harness your indignation at historical anachronisms

Date: 2009-11-14 09:23 pm (UTC)

Date: 2009-11-14 07:21 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] willworker.livejournal.com
It was partly "because they liked it," but also partly because spices are preservatives. Lots of popular foods were born of a need to preserve (bacon (smoke), sauerkraut (vinegar), jerky (dehydration), jam (sugar), etc).

Steve

Date: 2009-11-14 07:23 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] willworker.livejournal.com
Also, if cooked enough, most "bad" meat won't make you sick-- rancidity tastes bad, but if you boil the microbes to death, it can be eaten safely. I don't see why a priori rancid meat couldn't be cooked to sterilization and spiced to cover the flavor.

Steve

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Date: 2009-11-14 07:27 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] coraa.livejournal.com
True, although I doubt that the preservative nature of the spices was the main reason, given how incredibly expensive spices were and what a very large amount of spices are necessary to have any noticeable antimicrobial effect. There are too many more affordable ways to preserve meat for it to be plausible as a utilitarian move -- not to mention that people who could afford pepper, for instance, could also afford to have animals slaughtered as needed.

I think it was partly a matter of taste and also, to a large extent, a status thing -- a matter of conspicuous consumption, literally.

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Date: 2009-11-14 12:18 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] asakiyume.livejournal.com
Very nice ^_^

Tangentially, your entry made me recall how superstitious people are about food contamination and refrigeration, a superstition that each summer gets reinforced by public service announcements. Is it meat? Is it dairy? Have you stopped eating it (i.e., is your meal over)? Well then RUSH THAT FOOD INTO THE FRIDGE OMG DON'T LET IT SIT OUT OR BACTERIA WILL GET YOU, DEADLY BACTERIA WILL GROW IN YOUR FOOD INSTANTLY OMG THE FRIDGE THE FRIDGE THE FRIDGE!!

I discovered, living briefly with my relaxed mother-in-law, that in fact, a roast can sit out for 24 hours and then be refrigerated. Milk can sit out, can get warm, for an hour, and not yet be sour. And so on.

I understand why service announcements urge people to be careful; it only takes one bad-luck case to send you to the hospital. But if something isn't *instantly* fridged, it's not going to suddenly, and inevitably, give you a case of food poisoning.

Back to your main point, though, I think it's a case of people using the word "rotten" too freely. Meat can start to break down without yet being "rotten." When you hang a pheasant after killing it (again, something that my in-laws did), you are letting some of that breakdown process occur--but it's not progressing to the "rotten" stage.

Date: 2009-11-14 07:02 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] coraa.livejournal.com
I think you're right. People say "they ate bad meat" or "they ate rotten meat," when what they probably mean is that they ate meat that was more aged than we would probably find palatable. (As I mentioned to [livejournal.com profile] sartorias, below, I think it's analogous to the situation with milk -- to modern people, pasteurized milk that has been kept ice-cold from pasteurization to table tastes 'right,' and I suspect that warm or room-temp milk fresh from the cow would taste 'wrong.' But that's not because the fresh, warm cowsmilk is bad, it's because there's a certain expectation for how it ought to taste.)

As to the food safety point -- well, as an example, I brine chicken before I cook it. Most brine recipes tell you to make your brine, add the chicken to it, and put it in the refrigerator for the hour or so it takes to brine... but I don't bother. I make my brine with cold water, and then I leave it on the counter to brine, on the principle that an hour isn't that long and a very salty brine will retard bacterial growth anyway. If I need to brine a larger bird, such that it takes hours, I will do it in the fridge, but for an hour? I'll take my chances.

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Date: 2009-11-14 04:04 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] vom-marlowe.livejournal.com
I was cheered by this post! I got an F on an English paper in high school about this topic and it still makes me bitter. Oranges with cloves, yes, but whole roast deer? Not so much.

Date: 2009-11-14 05:26 pm (UTC)
ext_77466: (Default)
From: [identity profile] tedeisenstein.livejournal.com
Weren't oranges with cloves used more for the scent in a pomander than as a foodstuff?

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Date: 2009-11-14 04:08 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] sartorias.livejournal.com
They did eat meat just turning...I remember nearly choking when reading the full Pepys diary, in which he often describes his meals. One time he ordered a dinner, and came to sit down, to discover the meat covered with tiny worms. As far as I could see he ate it anyway.

Date: 2009-11-14 04:40 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] morganlf.livejournal.com
Not to be nit-picky, but Pepys is certainly not medieval.

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Date: 2009-11-14 09:42 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] maggiedacatt.livejournal.com
One of my favorite professors at NYU, a film historiographer, once said: "Be careful not to view the past as an impoverished version of the present." Which is beautiful, and so apt for thinking about these stupid myths about the past.

Date: 2009-11-14 09:42 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] maggiedacatt.livejournal.com
She said that in response to someone saying something dumb about the past. ;)

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